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All that jazz . . . and more
By SANDRA J. GADSDEN NEW ORLEANS -- The good times referred to in this city's unofficial motto, Laissez les bon temps roulez, will start rolling again today as tens of thousands of eager music aficionados check Web sites to learn the lineup for the 34th annual New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival. Don't be fooled by the name: The event is more about music heritage than jazz. "We're a heritage of jazz because New Orleans holds that birthright," said Quint Davis, Jazzfest producer and director. But "our festival is . . . the gumbo of different music." The event runs for nine days and is a roux of jazz, blues and gospel, plus zydeco, rock 'n' roll, bluegrass, country, folk, even a hint of rap. Local and world-reknown performers play in huge tents that offer seating and, more important, shade for 2,000 to 3,000 people. Crowds reach 65,000 to 85,000 each day. At its core, the festival gives its patrons an authentic taste of Louisiana culture. But to the thousands of people who make the pilgrimage to the Crescent City, it also is a celebration, a reunion of friendships amid great food and free-spirited fun. "There's an overall feeling and vibe of the people who attend the fest that this is one of the happiest times of their lives," Davis said. The festival runs from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. April 24-27 and April 30-May 4 at the Fair Grounds Race Course, which is about 10 minutes from the French Quarter. Other events, including Piano Night, are held throughout the city between the big weekends. The Evening Concert Series is at various venues during the festival. But the heart of the event is at the Fair Grounds. "When Jazzfest is running, (the site) is the third-largest city in Louisiana," Davis said. "It includes 12 stages, four craft villages, 22 drink tents . . . and between 800 to 1,500 musicians a day." There are medical tents, a Virgin records store, ATMs, even an on-site post office. Jazzfest survival guideSome Jazzfest veterans begin the day at Liuzza's at the Track, 1518 N Lopez, which is about two blocks from the fairgrounds' main entrance. The bar and grill is noted for its Bloody Marys and its JazzCAM, where the savvy strike a pose while yelling into cell phones to friends back home to log on to www.nola.com to view the picture. This is also a great location to pick up a cool schedule lanyard from WWOZ-FM 90.7, the event's official radio station. FOOD AND DRINK: Though locals peddle bottled water in the areas leading to the fairgrounds' entrances, Jazzfest security will not allow beverages inside. The security force uses mirrors to check under vehicles before they enter the fairgrounds and searches all spectators, Davis said. You will be at the site long enough to need at least one meal; this has been anticipated. "Food is a vital part of New Orleans culture. We don't make reservations for theater; we make reservations for dinner," Davis said. "The greatest way to experience the fest is by walking around with a plate of food and hearing and seeing (musicians) you've never heard of." When you even think you might get hungry, head to one of the food courts. Offerings include seafood au gratin, crawfish pie, crawfish beignets, fried oyster or fried soft-shell crab po-boys (a huge sandwich), alligator sauce piquante, shrimp etouffee and vegetarian dishes. The prices range from $3 to $6. Try everything, but pace yourself, and plan ahead: If Jimmy Buffett or another favorite is going on in an hour, buy crawfish bread (usually wrapped in foil) and enough drinks to hold you over until after his set. Crowds are thick, and it is unlikely that you would be able to maneuver to a food court and then return to your spot if you try to leave minutes before the show. THE VENUES: There are five concert stages, across the infield of the horse track -- really -- and three tented stages outside the track's east rim. The festival is mainly outdoors, but much takes place at its only permanent structure, the Grandstand. Exhibits, lectures and cooking demonstrations are held, and it has the only flush toilets at the festival -- expect long lines -- and the music stages labeled Lagniappe, African, Folk and Allison Minor Music Heritage. Each main outdoor stage has something setting it apart. On the Fais Do Do Stage is music true to the Cajun and Creole cultures of Louisiana. A fan favorite is zydeco musician Rockin' Dopsie Jr. The Acura Stage is the largest. Last year's lineup included Bonnie Raitt, Blues Traveler, Buffett and his Coral Reefer Band, Melissa Etheridge, Counting Crowes and Lenny Kravitz. The Acura is the only stage that offers huge video screens, allowing fans in the outer reaches to see the action onstage. But it's a long way from the drink sellers and portable toilets. The Sprint Stage is second in size to Acura. Last year it hosted Cowboy Mouth, the Dirty Dozen Brass Band, Terrance Simien, Better than Ezra and Buckwheat Zydeco. The Sprint and Acura stages, which accommodate the largest audiences, are on opposite ends of the fairgrounds. To take in back-to-back performances at each, your only option is to run. Cool tip: Both stages are close to strategically placed misting tents, where you can cool off for a few moments. The Congo Square Stage offers jazz, rap, rhythm and blues, and Indian dancers. Performers have included Bobby Womack, Ladysmith Black Mambazo, Idia.Arie, Wynton Marsalis and Teddy Pendergrass. Midway between the Sprint and Acura stages, the Congo is the only one that allows spectators to visit a food court or buy T-shirts and artwork and still be able to see the action onstage. A visit to the gospel tent is a must. In addition to being treated to intricate arrangements by soloists, small groups and mass choirs, you can witness the "tambourine lady" get her "praise on" with fancy footwork. This is like going to a daylong tent revival minus the preacher. It's all about the music. One highlight each year is hearing Aaron Neville sing Amazing Grace and Ave Maria. The standing-room-only crowd spills onto the track. Planning your day -- and night"It's more important to come early than stay late, unless there's some particular act that you want to see" later, Davis said. Coming early gives festivalgoers a chance to leave and rest later in the day, to prepare for the concerts and festivities that begin after the fairgrounds closes. Music venues such as the House of Blues, Tipitina's, Maple Leaf Bar, Saenger Theater, Orpheum Theater and Mid City Lanes Rock 'n' Bowl offer performances that can last until daybreak. Often the lineups include Jazzfest performers, but the treat is having two headliners share the stage. Tickets usually sell out fast. To avoid disappointment, go to www.offbeat.com for the listings and purchase tickets before heading to New Orleans. Tickets for the festival go on sale Friday. Tickets for the Evening Concert Series can be purchased at any Ticketmaster outlet. A daily scheduleWednesday: Catch an early flight to New Orleans, check into your hotel, purchase advance tickets to Jazzfest ($18). The rates go to $25 on Thursday. Also, purchase shuttle tickets to the fairgrounds; shuttles are the most convenient transportation. Some hotels offer complimentary tickets to Jazzfest and shuttle tickets. Make dinner reservations at a nice restaurant. Thursday: Today is usually "Children's Day" at the festival and is also your only shot at having a blanket party with friends on the grounds. Weekends get too crowded. Friday: If you want to skip a day of Jazzfest, make it today. Instead, explore the French Quarter and Garden District or take a boat ride to the Audubon Zoo. Saturday: This is the day when all the people who could not get off work Thursday and Friday show up at the festival. A few years ago, the Dave Matthews Band and Mystical performed before a record crowd that topped 150,000. Today's strategy: Arrive early, take your personal stash of toilet paper and towelettes (the toilets' supply may run out), and decide with your friends who wants to see which acts and where you will reunite. Sunday: The favorite day for the locals, probably because the lineup is full of performers with Louisiana in their blood. Last year's musicians included John Mooney and Bluesiana, Wanda Rouzan, Preservation Hall Jazz Band, the Radiators, Nicholas Payton's Soul Patrol and the Neville Brothers. Jazzfest attendees will remind you: "The party ain't over until the watermelon drops." It's true: One of the Neville Brothers usually closes the festival by dropping a watermelon on the stage. If You GoTHE LINEUP: Fans can find the lineup at the festival's Web site, www.nojazzfest.com, and at www.nola.com, Web site for the New Orleans Times-Picayune. Those not living in New Orleans can buy tickets through Ticketmaster, www.ticketmaster.com. The tickets are $18 until 5 p.m. the day before the festival, $25 at the gate. GETTING THERE: Several airlines fly into Louis Armstrong International Airport from Tampa International, but it is wise to book flights well in advance. Don't bother renting a car. There are inexpensive shuttles ($10 each way) from the airport to the French Quarter, Garden District, Warehouse District and Central Business District. In these areas, restaurants and bars are within walking distance. STAYING THERE: To search online for a good rate, go to the Web sites Turbotrip.com, Travelocity.com, Exepdia.com, Orbitz,com, Hotels.com, nojazzfest.com, neworleans.com. The festival's official tour operator is Destination Management Inc. For information on festival packages, call (504) 592-0500 or toll-free 1-800-366-8882. Also, several airlines offer packages that include airfare and hotel rooms; check the individual carriers' Web sites. TO MAKE YOUR FESTIVAL DAY A SUCCESS:
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