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The debut of the Chef's Table last month stirred a lot of interest among Tampa Bay gourmets. Here are some hard-to-find ingredients readers have been looking for:
CREME FRAICHE:Curiously, creme fraiche was the focus of about a dozen e-mails, including one from someone living in Puerto Rico who regularly visits Tampa on business trips.
Creme fraiche could be considered the inspirations for the expression "creme de la creme." Indeed, it is the best of all creams.
This French specialty is traditionally made with unpasteurized cream. Very rich, smooth and a bit tangy, it is perfect for thickening sauces and soups because it can be boiled without curdling. At home in Provence, my mom, Chantal, used to prepare soup about three to four times a week in the winter, and I still remember looking forward to the dollop of creme fraiche I always added to her vegetable soup.
The closest substitute is probably sour cream. Sour cream, however, does not stand heat and separates almost immediately. And frankly, it does not come close to the taste. I have seen creme fraiche at a few local markets, including larger Publix stores. Plateroti's Italian Gourmet (1621 Gulf-to-Bay Blvd, Clearwater; 727-461-1817) carries it, and so does the Fresh Market (25961 U.S. 19; 727-669-6111 and 13147 N Dale Mabry Highway, 813-964-8001).
CHILI PEPPERS:A lot of questions also surfaced about chili peppers. Readers asked about Anaheim peppers (large, mild chilies, perfect for chilies rellenos), poblanos (large, mild and heart-shaped peppers; great for stuffing), anchos (dried poblano peppers, dark brown and wrinkled), jalapenos (good amount of heat and rich flavor), cayenne peppers (mostly for Cajun recipes) and, of course, the killer habanero chili (small and round, the hottest chili in the world).
In your quest for the appropriate peppers, remember that supermarkets (such as Publix or Albertsons) target their clients and adjust their inventory according to the demographics of a particular part of town. If you need chili peppers or other ingredients used in Latin cuisine, try to visit the supermarkets in Hispanic neighborhoods. You will find a whole new world of foods.
Otherwise, Mexico Lindo, a small Mexican supermarket with two locations (6050 Park Blvd., Pinellas Park, 727-548-8721 and 814 Court St., Clearwater; 727-443-5892) is a good source for ethnic items and nice chilies, mainly chipotle, poblano, green and habanero. For dried versions, visit Oasis Herbs in Clearwater (1710 N Hercules Ave.; 727-445-1897), a small boutique with a lot of herbs and spices.
Beware, leftovers from spicy dishes will become more spicy when reheated. Likewise, the more you cook a dish, the spicier it gets. And remember that it's easier to add a spice than to remove it. Therefore, use chilies sparingly.
ARTISANAL CHEESE:We're not talking square, rubbery cheese. We're talking taste, texture, smell (sometimes stink) and cheese so pretty you could spend your time kissing it. Artisanal cheeses are crafted by small farms or microfactories. Their beauty lies in the variety. Each artisanal cheese is different, "shaped" by the kind of milk of which it is made, the land where it is produced, and the way it is aged.
Where are some of these hot spots of artisanal cheese production? France, with its extraordinary diversity of cheese production, comes to mind. In my opinion, Spain (for the incredible taste and texture of its cheeses) and the United States (for its new wave collection of subtle cheeses) complete this fromage a trois.
A handful of places offer artisanal cheese in Tampa Bay. Grand Cru Wine Cellar in Tampa (11724 N Dale Mabry Highway; 813-269-8463) has about 30 kinds, and Mazzaro's Italian market in St. Petersburg (2909 22nd Ave. N; 727-321-2400) has more. Plateroti's Italian Gourmet has a small selection including a wonderful goat cheese from the south of France (ask for "crottin"). Vintage Wine Cellar in South Tampa (3629 Henderson Blvd; 813-879-2931) carries a few cheddars from England, Spanish cheeses and the delightful Morbier (France). Also, the Fresh Market (25961 U.S. 19, Clearwater; 727-669-6111 and 13147 N Dale Mabry Highway, Tampa; 813-964-8001) just added artisanal cheese to their otherwise bland display.
What to look for?
For French cheese, go off the beaten path and try something other than Brie and Roquefort. I suggest something along the lines of a Pont l'Eveque (a stronger Brielike square cheese, creamy and soft, made from cow milk), Morbier (firmer cow milk cheese again, but made out of a combination of both morning and evening milk, which are separated with a fine line of ashes). Reblochon (a mild but tasty, textured cheese from the Alps) and a good chevre (goat cheese) such as the crottin are delicious.
For Spanish cheeses, look for the addictive Garrotxa (super-thin gray rind, with a light covering of mold). Garrotxa is mild, nutty, herbal, with a hint of thyme and rosemary, which are both part of the goats natural forage.
Others to try are ibores, a hard, dense and sharp ewes' cheese rubbed with a mixture of olive oil and sweet paprika, and mahon, which is made on the small island of Menorca.
Finally, do not overlook American cheese. A few farms, primarily in California and the Northeast, have world-class products. Dry Monterey Jack is probably the finest American cheese. Naturally sweet and mellow with a nutty flavor, it is cured in brine and then rubbed with a mixture of oil, pepper and cocoa.
An American blue cheese, the Point Reyes, is unlike any other blue cheese I've ever tasted (creamier style, full-flavored blue cheese, influenced by the salty Pacific breezes where it is produced). Also ask for the Humboldt Fog (California) and, last but not least, the Midnight Moon, which despite its really corky name is an exquisite hard goat cheese, reminiscent of the texture and taste of the Spanish Garrotxa.
Many of these California cheeses, and others, can be purchased online at Amazon.com's new gourmet shop (www.amazon.com) or at www.zingermans.com
I invite you to try these unique cheeses, along with others, such as Roaring 40's (Australia), Tallegio (Italy), Shropshire Blue (England) or Ossau Iraty (France). During your enriching journey on the cheese trail, don't forget to drop me a line to tell me about your experiences.
-- Chef Gui Alinat welcomes questions about cooking and will respond to those of general interest in future columns. Sorry, he can't take phone calls or answer individual requests. Send questions to him in care of Taste, St. Petersburg Times, P.O. Box 1121, St. Petersburg, FL 33731, or e-mail him at chefgui@chefgui.com Please include your name and city of residence.