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Chef's Table

To White House cooks: Hail to the chef

By GUI ALINAT
Published February 16, 2005

Some White House officials leave amid plenty of commentary; other departures pass relatively unnoticed.

A few weeks ago, White House executive chef Walter Scheib was fired. Scheib, 50, had been hired 11 years ago by Hillary Clinton. Recent changes in the White House social office may have triggered the firing, but Scheib told the New York Times two things that caught my attention.

"We've been trying to find a way to satisfy the first lady's stylistic requirements and it has been difficult. Basically, I was not successful in my attempt," he said.

He also said: "While it is an honor to serve the first family, it is the same thing, night in and night out, over an extended period. And it's time for me to be exploring all of my creative abilities and not limiting myself."

How hard can it be to cook for the president?

According to www.whitehouse.gov archives, it looks like a daunting task. Here is how Scheib and former executive pastry chef Roland Mesnier describe their jobs in the "Ask the White House" online interactive forums: "The White House always comes first."

In the forums, Scheib and Mesnier explain that chefs must be dedicated to the profession, the job and the first family. This also means leaving your politics at the door.

Both say there is no room for error.

Mesnier, who restricted flaming dessert at the White House, acknowledges that "disasters" do happen, like the Christmas when a woman's shawl caught on fire.

Chefs Scheib and Mesnier are interesting fellows who shared some of their insider tales by answering questions online. For example, Mesnier says that Democrats usually eat more than Republicans, and that women will eat more pastries than men. Pastries at large functions, he says, tend to disappear into pockets, and usually end up as Christmas ornaments in people's homes.

The White House kitchen staff cooks all meals for the first family when they are in residence. The kitchen staff also prepares private entertaining dinners, as well as official state dinners. When the president and first lady are not in residence, the kitchen staff plans state dinners or uses the time to deep-clean the kitchen.

State dinners are large banquets the president hosts for foreign dignitaries. As much as a three-month preparation is necessary. During that time, the first lady and the chef go over the menu, an initial tasting is organized, changes made and a second tasting may or may not be done. All menu items are tested and retested before the kitchen prepares them for guests.

State dinners are designed to showcase the best of America's recipes, food and wines. Everything is made from scratch, using the finest ingredients. Most of the products used are grown or produced in the United States.

Interestingly, the chef sometimes features culinary influences from the visiting dignitaries' countries. For example, this lunch menu served in December 2004 to Italian Premier Silvio Berlusconi.

The first course was grilled scallops with herbed polenta with corn and pancetta sauce. The main course was smoked rib-eye steak with pinto bean chipotle ragout with whipped sweet potatoes and fall vegetables. This was followed by a mache, avocado and tomato salad with lemon-thyme dressing. Mesnier prepared a dessert of cherry savarin with honey-vanilla ice cream.

Clearly the menu is New American, featuring techniques such as grilling and smoking, and regional items such as scallops, corn, rib-eye steak, chipotle, and sweet potato. But there are also Italian influence in techniques, including "ragout' and ingredients such as polenta, pancetta, beans, mache salad and thyme.

Making sure that all religious and dietary concerns are addressed is also a large part of the job in the White House kitchen. People who come to dinner have different allergies and preferences of food. The White House kitchen staff is always prepared for that.

Now that Scheib is leaving, the White House is looking for a chef, and you may fancy the idea of sending your application.

"The process will move as quickly as possible," said Gordon Johndroe, press secretary to Laura Bush, in the Washington Post. "But obviously, it's a certain type of chef that the residence's staff will be looking for. It's a unique position."

Laura Bush will make the final decision.

Alas, if the White House doesn't find you first, you're not likely to get your foot in. Both Scheib and Mesnier were recruited. They both had impressive resumes before their White House experience.

Imagine what their resumes look like now. As Scheib was quoted: "I'm not going to be running the local pancake house."

Chef Gui Alinat welcomes questions about cooking and will respond to those of general interest in future columns. Sorry, he can't take phone calls or answer individual requests. Send questions to him in care of Taste, St. Petersburg Times, P.O. Box 1121, St. Petersburg, FL 33731, or e-mail him at chefgui@chefgui.com Please include your name and city of residence.

[Last modified February 15, 2005, 11:39:04]